Exploring Colonial Mexico ©


The Three Kings of Pápalo
Located in the remote and rugged forested region of La Cañada in northeastern Oaxaca,* the early church at Pápalo was founded in the 1520s and dedicated to Los Santos Reyes, the Three Kings. 16th century bells are reputed to rest in the belfries
The single nave is spanned by a handsome beamed cedar roof typical of rural sierra churches in Oaxaca. Remnants of painted colonial friezes decorate the walls and surround the triumphal arch that frames the east end. While several old side altars stand along the nave, most in rickety condition, the principal treasure of the church is its main altarpiece which fills the broad apse.
The Main Retablo
This extraordinarily expansive gilded 18th century altarpiece is beautifully wrought in classic Oaxacan baroque style, with ornate spiral columns and jutting cornices hung with long spindles.
The retablo rises through four tiers and features a projecting center pavilion and flared forward on both sides. The retablo contains several fine figure sculptures as well as several large painted panels. Paintings include three large portraits of female saints, Santa Elena, Santa Margarita and the less commonly portrayed Santa Cunegunda. These are dated 1793 and have been attributed to Antonio de Lara, a member of the well known family of 18th century Pueblan artists.
Gracefully posed and richly accoutered statues prominently include the Three Kings themselves, standing one above the other in the center pavilion.
In all, a rich and refined work of colonial art, all the more extraordinary for its location in a remote rural village.
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