Exploring
Colonial Mexico©
Exploring
Colonial Mexico©
Mexico's Fortress Monasteries: a series
NEWS FROM CUAUTINCHAN
One of the most historic colonial monuments in the State of Puebla is the impressive hillside monastery of San Juan Bautista Cuautinchán, which overlooks the Valsequillo reservoir and the broad Atlixco valley, south of the City of Puebla.
Erected in the 1570s to a design of the Spanish architect Francisco Becerra, the rugged, twin-towered church was built to last. Powerful stone buttresses and the massive, rounded apse have sustained the structure through more than 400 years. The imposing church front and adjacent convento arcade are sturdy but plain, their Roman-like simplicity serving to emphasize their integrity and strength.
Earthquake Damage
Despite its robust appearance, however, Cuautinchán was one of the several Pueblan churches to suffer serious damage in the 7.4 temblor of June 1999, when an atrium gateway collapsed, and half of the belfry atop the north tower fell. This was due in part, it was discovered, to original structural weakness. Fractures opened in the nave vault, putting the fabric of the church and the priceless colonial artifacts inside at risk.
In 2006 the World Monuments Fund named the monastery as one of the 100 most endangered historic sites, and $100,000 was pledged by American Express towards its conservation and eventual full restoration. It is hoped that this designation will encourage the donation of more funds to complete the project, estimated to cost some 5 million pesos ($500,000)
The Main Retablo
The principal treasure of the church is its grand main altarpiece (right), one of a handful of 16th century Renaissance retablos to survive in Mexico, and quite possibly the oldest and most complete of them all. Originally designed for the church of San Francisco in the city of Puebla, it was moved to its present location in 1599.
Six large paintings depicting the Life of Christ adorn the retablo - a rare marriage of early colonial arts extant in a single masterpiece, unique in Mexico. (see plan) These also date from the late 16th century and have been attributed to the Flemish artist, Simón Pereyns, although it was most likely his protegé Juan de Arrué.
Although structural repairs have been made and efforts to stabilize the altarpiece undertaken, more work remains to be done (see the ICOMOS report). In fact the historic retablo, including the paintings, is currently being restored by conservator Alicia Ortega with funds from the Fundación Amigos de Cuauhtinchán.
Other treasures
In the cloister, above a doorway, is a tiny mural of The Annunciation, also believed to date from the 1500s, in which prehispanic eagle and jaguar figures flank the Virgin Mary. (The ancient place name, Cuautinchan, signifies "House of the Eagle Warriors")
Many other priceless colonial artifacts and works of art are on display in the museum attached to the convento , closed following the earthquake of 1999 but hopefully to reopen soon.
One of the beneficial results of the earthquake, was the spectacular find of a 16th century mural, or painted wall retablo. The mural was discovered behind a 17th century wooden altarpiece of San Diego de Alcalá, during an inspection prior to its recent restoration.
This very rare early work, also dedicated to San Diego, portrays numerous scenes from the life of the saint in an accomplished Flemish style that may possibly also be the work of Juan de Arrué.
The mural was successfully "lifted" from the wall and transferred to a fiberglass support, which will be placed in the monastery museum after conservation.
(More recent
pictures of these colonial treasures will be added to this page
when available.)
Text &color illustrations ©2004 & 2006 by Richard D. Perry Photo of San Diego retablo © 1999 by Carlos Flores Marini See our other pages on Puebla and Atlixco < For more on Mexico's Fortress Monasteries see our guidebook top
