Exploring Colonial Mexico©
Exploring Colonial Mexico©
Set on an ancient temple mound on the heights above the colonial city of Pátzcuaro, the historic Basilica or Colegiata de La Salud, is an impressive shrine to Pátzcuaro's patron saint - Our Lady of Health.
This venerated image of the Virgin, brought here in the 16th century by Bishop Vasco de Quiroga, the first bishop of Michoacán, still rests inside the church opposite an 18th century painting of the controversial bishop, still affectionately known as "Tata" Vasco. His statue also stands in the Plaza Grande of Pátzcuaro.
Despite the ravages of fire, earthquake and occupation by French troops in the 1800s, the much re-built Basilica remains an impressive structure. However, the present church occupies only a fraction of the original plan for the building, a highly original architectural scheme hatched by Vasco de Quiroga for a grand cathedral that called for no less than five naves radiating from a single, centrally placed altar.
Plagued from the beginning by controversy in almost every aspect, this ambitious architectural project never materialized. Only one of the five naves was built - the basis for the present Basilica.
However, a reminder of this unique project is found in the colonial coat of arms of the city of Patzcuaro. This armorial design features an outline of the lake, complete with islands and floating church. Below this is the plan of Tata Vasco's cathedral with its five radiating naves. (The "floating" church, set on a raft with two figures - a cleric and boatman -may represent the removal of the first see of Michoacán from Tzintzuntzan to the city of Patzcuaro in 154 )
This unusual coat of arms is preserved in two places in or near the city. The first (top) is a relief above the doorway of the former nunnery of Las Caterinas, just down the hill from the Basilica. The second is engraved on the base of the Humilladero Cross, in an historic chapel and shrine located on the northern outskirts of the city (below).
the Humilladero Cross
Text and color photograph ©2010 by Richard D. Perry.
Drawing (adaptation) © 1997 by Richard D. Perry.
For more details on the colonial arts of the Pátzcuaro region see our guidebook Blue Lakes & Silver Cities
See our other pages on Pátzcuaro
Look for an exciting upcoming exhibit and book on the painted ceilings of Michoacán
