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Treasures of Mérida, Yucatan.

Surviving the Revolution: restoring La Candelaria * (Calle. 67 & Calle. 64)


Founded as an ermita or barrio chapel of Mérida in the early 1600s, the sturdy little church of La Candelaria was rebuilt late in the same century, looking much as it appears today following recent restoration. A modest espadaña trimmed with tiny decorative scrolls and flanked by pierced parapets, stands above the classically framed doorway, which is carved with discreet sprays of acanthus leaves above the archway.

As you peer through the doorway and then penetrate the dim chapel interior, the unique treasure of La Candelaria comes slowly into view at the far end. There, in the domed sanctuary rests a magnificent gilded altarpiece.

Framed with spiraling Solomonic columns and richly embossed with red, white and gold foliage, this gleaming baroque retablo dates from 1706 and is the only altarpiece of this style in the city of Mérida to have survived the widespread despoiling of churches during the Mexican Revolution.

Newly restored by the local branch of Adopte Una Obra de Arte, the re installed retablo, together with its elegant statuary, takes its place among Mérida's finest and rarest works of colonial religious art (visit the Adopte... web page for more details and pictures)

* For Mexicans, La Candelaria, or Candlemas, celebrated on February 2, is the feast day of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception. In ancient days, according to Mosaic law, this time marked the ceremony of Purification, a Jewish tradition which required Mary and Joseph to present the infant Jesus in the temple 40 days after his birth. Candlemas is a popular festival in Yucatán, its most important celebration being that surrounding the Virgin of Tetiz.


  • Text and photographs ©2007 & 2009 by Richard D. Perry. All rights reserved.
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