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San Pedro Cholul

A dramatic cycle of polychrome murals, uncovered a decade ago under a 19th century whitewash cap, once again adorns the nave of San Pedro Cholul, modest country church near Conkal, northwest of Mérida. Like most of Yucatan's churches, Cholul started life as a 16th century visita, probably a simple open air chapel with a belfry and thatched ramada. This was succeeded in the 1600s by an imposing stone church - essentially the one we see today.

The Murals

Believed to date from the late 1600s, the spectacular cycle of frescoes centers on a complex but now only partial scene of the Assumption and Coronation of the Virgin with the Holy Trinity, which originally spanned the entire archway above the sanctuary - the former open chapel, now the apse of the church.

The Virgin is surmounted by the Trinity and surrounded by a multitude of apostles, friars, angels and other religious figures. A magisterial St. Peter, the patron saint of Cholul, appears beneath the archway, below what seems to be the Garden of Eden with a voluptuous figure of Eve set amidst a riot of tropical vegetation.

A procession of saints and martyrs decorates the piers along the nave, with angels bearing the Instruments of the Passion around the arches. The unusual placement, elegant draftsmanship and rich coloration of these figures is especially impressive - a unique survival in Yucatan. Other murals include recently uncovered fragments of colorful friezes and painted niches.

The restorations were completed during 2005 and 2006 by INAH Yucatan under the direction of maestro Fernando Garcés Fierros with the patronage of the active Yucatan chapter of Adopte una obra de arte

Other colonial items of interest in the church include the 18th century red side retablo, also recently restored, as well as portable "box" retablos and folk santos.

 

The Coronation of the Virgin mural

 

The nave under restoration

 

The painted apse

 

Archways at the west end of the church

 

Angels on the archway

 

St. Peter and Eve

 

St. Anthony of Padua

 

Painted pier

 

The 18th century "red retablo"

 

El Niño de Atocha

 

Box retablo with San Roque Peregrino

 

Painted niche with the Virgin Mary