Exploring Colonial Mexico©Exploring Colonial Mexico©
San Miguel Mani (©2005 David Wakely)Mani, located 100 kms south of Mérida, east of the Puuc range, was the seat of the powerful Xiu Maya clan. Following the Spanish conquest of Yucatán, Mani was chosen as the site for the first Franciscan mission in the region. The monastery of San Miguel is especially noted for its great open chapel and fine early retablos.
Over the past few years, restoration work has been under way at the 16th century monastery, directed by Fernando Garcés Fierros.* During this exciting project many historic artworks, artifacts and architectural details have been uncovered.
Until recently, apart from a few fragments, the Franciscan mural program at Mani was thought to be lost or minimal. During 2001 and 2002 however, numerous early colonial frescoes were discovered in both the church and convento, hidden behind retablos and layers of whitewash.
The Apsidal Mural
The most spectacular find was an extraordinarily well preserved 16th century mural, discovered behind the main altar at the east end of the church. This large fresco, which fills the apse from floor to vault, took the form of a wall retablo and is believed to date from the late 1560s or 1570s.
The painted architectural framework of the fresco is Italianate in design - unusual for this early date. The two principal niches, framed in Plateresque fashion, contain polychrome murals of animated design and confident execution, portraying the Stigmatization of St. Francis and The Archangel Michael, patron saint of Mani, lancing Lucifer. Still retaining their bright hues of red, blue/green and earth colors, a rarity in 16th century murals, these dynamic compositions have a Mannerist palette and sense of drama remarkable for this early date, possibly indicating the presence of a European artist at Mani.
The painted pediment shows the Instruments of Christ's Passion together with the Franciscan insignia of The Five Wounds, enclosed in an ornate strapwork frame flanked by the archangels Gabriel and Raphael. Framed escutcheons of the Spanish royal arms are displayed on either side.
The main retablo, before removal.
Uncovering the apsidal fresco behind the retablo ^
Restoring the fresco >
The restored fresco
Details of the pediment ^
The Stigmatization of St. Francis >
Other Mani Murals
In addition to the apsidal mural, fourteen polychrome frescoes were re-discovered behind the16th century side retablos of San Antonio de Padua and Dolores as they were being dismantled and removed for restoration. Some were well preserved but others were in poor condition. All are thought to date from the late1500s - among the earliest yet found in Yucatan - and may also have been executed by European artists. The best preserved portray scenes from the lives of St. Francis and St. Anthony of Padua (left).
Fragments of the murals that formerly adorned the cloister corridors have also been recovered, notably a tender scene of fine graphic detail depicting the Visitation between Mary and St. Elizabeth (right) >
The Main Retablo
It was during the dismantling of the main altarpiece at Mani that the older mural adorning the rear wall of the apse behind it was uncovered. Now both the mural and the altarpiece have been restored.
This elegant, triple tier retablo is a Yucatecan classic, its harmonious lines framed by decorative Plateresque style columns set against intricate passages of gilded relief with colorful accents. The understated shell niches on both main levels are occupied by colorfully costumed saints from several periods. A relief of the Padre Eterno looks down from the lofty crowning gable.
Of special note are the paintings at the base, or predella of the retablo, now restored to their original hues. The Four Doctors of the Latin Church, resplendant in their episcopal tiaras, look inwards to the Four Evangelists in the center panel, who in turn gaze at the tabernacle containing the Holy Sacrament.
SOURCES AND LINKS
*The wide-ranging and model restoration project at Mani was carried out between 2001 and 2003 under the joint sponsorship of the Centro INAH Yucatán, under the direction of Fernando Garcés Fierros, and the organization Adopte una Obra de Arte SA. under the local leadership of Elba Villareal Rodríguez de García. text ©2005 by Richard D. Perry. based on personal communications and material published in El Diario de Yucatan Photograph of monastery front ©2005 by David Wakely Thank you David! restoration photographs by Emanuel Rincón Becerra (elartedelaimagen@hotmail.com) photograph of the restored main retablo courtesy of Kathleen Davis ©2005. Thank you Kathy! for more on Mani and colonial Yucatan, consult the new edition of our guidebook Maya Missions More on the murals of Yucatan see our pages on the Colorful Retablos of Yucatán top
